Lancia Gialla

Finished Lancia Gialla last evening.  Just a buff and name stamp tonight and tomorrow it will be off to it's new owner!

It has been a fun one to make!  Lessons learned of course, but still great enjoyment.  It began as an homage to a beautiful WØ Larsen bulldog I own.  A partial blast, deep and dark with a nice 'virgin' section of bare briar on the diamond shank.  A smaller pipe, but extremely classy.  

This block was the first of the [assumed] Tracy Mincer briar I won on ebay.  Reported to be aged to the 1970's, if not back to the '50's it is extremely light briar.  I turned the block 90º from the original cut, in an attempt to get some of the handsome birdseye you see on the top of the bowl.  I didn't get full straight grain around the sides, but it is still quite attractive.  

After drilling the block, I moved on to the yellowheart extension.  I obtained it in a sampler 'pen blank' set from WoodCraft.  I wanted to mirror the birdseye I got from the bowl in the extension, so I carefully positioned the yellowheart section on end and drilled the draft hole.  Next I drilled the two mortises, one to receive the stem's tenon and one for the thin band's tenon I was to place as a divider between the extension and stummel.  After that I turned a section of ebonite as the band and tried to glue it in the stummel.  I used 8 second CA glue, but I think the label lied.  As soon as the band's tenon touched the stummel it froze.  Right about halfway in....great.  I tried to use a debonding agent with no luck, even heating and cooling the pieces to get it to release.  After working for about an hour to try and save it, I broke it off and re-drilled the mortise.  I turned a new piece and reattempted gluing it, this time successfully.  Whew!  What a relief!

I chucked a spindle in the lathe and began to shape the bowl, just roughing it in before I started with the disc sander.  Unfortunately, I had forgotten the original pipe and was cutting from memory.  Needless to say, my memory failed me.  The angle on the top of the bowl was far too flat and subsequently the undercut on the bottom was off as well.  I wondered if I could save it.  So, I headed to the sander.  After some manipulation, I was able to redeem it and make the shape you see now.  I guess it's a mixture of rhodesian and bulldog.

I kept the diamond shank thin, thinner than the Larsen.  It mimics the look of a sword or lance blade with sharp, crisp edges.  This honed edged is carried onto the bowl giving a distinct line change between the side and top of the bowl.

To pay homage to the yellowheart extension, I used a dark brown base stain offset by canary yellow.  The yellow was muted by the briar as it has a fairly dark complexion, but it still peeks through.

Pipe Dimensions:
Group Size: 3
Length: 5"
Height: 1 1/4"
Bowl Dia.: 1 5/8"
Chamber Dia.: 3/4"
Chamber Depth: 1"
Weight: 19 grams

Pipes In Progress

Been busy working on 3 new pipes.  Two of them are accounted for, the third will be for sale.  Tried a yellowheart extension on the 'bulldog' It was meant to be modeled after a W.Ø. Larsen pipe I own, but I forgot the original pipe to model while shaping this one and messed the shape a little.  Oh well, better next time!  The canted dublin will be going to a fellow in Germany. He wanted a pipe made to fit the 9mm filters they use there, hence the larger stature and shank on the pipe.  And the final is replicated from my first pipe.  A gentleman on the CPS forum I am on requested that I make him one like it.  Midway through production, they're still a bit rough but I hope to get them done soon!

Coachman Final

Many days have passed.  I had finally found and received 1/2" square aluminum tubing for the stem ring I had set out to make.  With a majority of the shaping done, I focused on the stem.  Got the basic shape done and cut the 'V' slot before attempting the ring.  After I was somewhat happy with that result, I made another template of the bottom of the bowl to mirror on the ring. After marking a datum line on the aluminum tube, I transfered the shape from the template and thinned the wall thickness as it was a bit bulky at .060". Finishing the work to the wall of the tube, I retrieved my Dremel and chucked up the slot cutter bit and roughed in the shape on the tubing. I finished the shaping with various needle files and finer grit sand paper.  With the ring near completion, I marked out the stem in a similar fashion and roughed it in with the Dremel.  This too I finished with needle files, an X-Acto knife (with a No. 11 blade of course!), and fine grit paper. Fitting and checking.  More fitting and, more checking. The process was a bit trying, but well worth the result.

With shaping of both parts complete, I glued the ring to the stem with CA glue and let it cure.  A little tweaking was required, but I got the ring secured and matched the shape to the stem.  But something was still not right. The whole thing was still clunky and awkward.  So, I grabbed a round chainsaw file and began to reshape the bottom of the stem to match the arc in a more fitting manner.  This changed the symmetry of the ring somewhat, but I believe the asymmetry is worth it!

I applied the base coat of ebony stain to the pipe and let it set to dry.  I wanted to go with another finish option, but could not get the result I wanted, no matter what avenues I ventured. I will figure it out one day, but for now, I stuck with a fairly classic 'contrast stain' color combination.  The stain dries quickly so I was buffing off the base coat in no time. With this method of staining, the dark base coat is almost completely removed, just leaving part of the grain a crisp dark ebony. Post buffing, I applied a special mixture I had made just for the pipe, mostly an orange hue. Two applications and it's ready for buffing.  A light touch with the white compound and a healthy covering of carnauba wax and look at it shine! I did the same buffing procedure to the stem after I was happy with the overall shape, slot and button.  

I quickly sent a message to the buyer so he could view his soon-to-be-owned pipe! He admired it, and thought a bit and told me something was missing.  He thought a bit more and suggested he would like another inlay of some sort on the stem. I told him I would think about it and get back to him with a handful of ideas. I tossed around  insert ideas in my head and came up with one in particular I really liked. Sent the buyer a message posthaste and explained my idea.  He didn't quite understand what I meant so I took a picture and mocked up my idea in a photo editor. 'I like those!' he said emphatically.  So I drilled the stem, cut pieces of aluminum tubing and glued them into their perspective holes.

My idea behind the pipe was to make a 'dress' pipe with classy elements that add sophistication. The ring on the front of the stem I made to mimic 'lapels' and the circle inlays on top, 'buttons'. I think in some ways it resembles a tuxedo.

Until the next pipe, happy piping!  Thanks for visiting!

Coachman III

I have been able to get a small amount of work done to Coachman so far this week.  Finished the external chamfer at the top of the bowl.  After a bit of consideration, I decided to also bevel the rim of the chamber/bowl.  I am done with the stummel shaping except a small amount to be done on the shank when I get the material I ordered for the stem ring I am doing.  Once it is in place, I will finalize the shank/stem 'square' and will finish the stem.  I have rough shaped the stem and am now just waiting for supplies.  Hope to have them Thursday.





I will be helping Wayne with his shop setup Friday.  He got some new tooling and needs a helping hand.  Then we and another friend are heading to the TSPTC Pipe Show in Fort Wayne on Saturday.  Promises to be a good time!


Until next time, happy piping!!

Coachman II

Whew!  Been a busy time since the last post.  Between my job, pipe repairs, restorations and my ebay pipes, I haven't had a lot of time to work on my own pipe fabrication!  But I did get a little shaping accomplished, roughing the briar closer to the pipe I have in my mind.

One feeling of relief I have with Coachman is the briar has cooperated far better than the briar used to make Houten.  No giant flaws or voids in this block, just a couple small sand pits and the like.  With a cooperative piece of briar, I have been able to keep fairly close to the shape I originally designed.  I have tweaked it as I work, but in large, it remains true to the original sketch.

With this shape, I intended on improving my bowl/shank transition and have been somewhat successful.  The square shank design of it made this aspect a little more interesting and more challenging.  Wayne has been complimentary of my transition and keeping the shank edges square.  But I reminded him, I am only part-way through the finishing steps on the stummel/shank and I have plenty of time to mess it up!  I also intend on 'slimming up' my pipes.  Making them look somewhat more sleek and balanced.  So far so good however, everything remains on course.

I have done a little more work beyond these photos, but not enough to warrant another set of pictures.  I am still deciding what finish I will apply to it.  I may try a dress black style or a brown contrast finish.  I am also working out in my mind how to accomplish the band/insert I hope to meld into the stem.

More to follow!  Until then happy piping!

Coachman

I have begun working on my second pipe, a bent acorn.  Got a promising piece of briar from which to shape its form!!  I am 2 days into it now and so far so good!  The block showed approximately 75% straight grain in its raw form.  It has kept fairly true as I have made dust out of it.
Had Friday off, so traveled out to Wayne's shop at about 9 in the morning.  Shot the breeze a bit when I got there, talked about restorations I was doing, stems I was making/refitting, and looked at new pipe projects.  I had been discussing this particular pipe with Wayne for a few weeks now and dove right in!  Made my template and transfered the shape to the untouched briar block, making a couple corrections to my original design.  Drilled the draught hole, and I was committed now!  Faced and drilled the mortise to accept the stem, yet to be made.

                          

Next step was to drill the tobacco chamber, and for this shape a conical bit must be used.  I had previously purchased 2 spade bits and ambitiously ground them to a conical shape and checked their hole-making ability on a good 'ol 2X4.  Worked like a champ on the soft 2X4, but as I began to drill the briar, it wasn't looking as nice.  I could see on the bit where it was cutting and where it wasn't.  So, over to the disc/belt sander to 'touch-up' my 'Nate-Made' bit.  Just a little touch here, and one there.  Back in the drill press, and fired it up.  Worked perfectly!  Made a really nice, smooth chamber!  Only thing left is to get the depth of the chamber right.  I grabbed the air nozzle and applied pressure to the mortise/draught hole, a tip made known to me by Wayne.  This is done so you don't 'over-drill' the chamber too deep and is a big help!  Air pressure applied, I removed more briar and as I was pulling out the bit to remove a bunch of briar shavings, I heard a horrible sound...the sound of the bit tearing the wood away from the top of the chamber!  Turns out I don't know my own strength.  I had pushed hard enough on the block with the nozzle I had tipped it slightly in the vise.  Fortunately, the damage was small and will be easily fixed later.  I finished the chamber drilling, starting with a puff of dust, to the last pass perfectly lined up with the draught hole and at the proper depth.  I am pretty sure I did the happy dance after that process was complete!

Now to the lathe.  Cut off a chunk of ebonite rod and chucked it in the meaty jaws of the Rikon lathe.  Next I drilled the draught hole with a tapered bit and finished with a straight 1/16" bit.  Next in the process is cutting the tenon.  Wayne had recently purchased a high quality turning chisel for use with his Rikon and this process.  I messed around on with the procedure a bit, fiddling with spindle speeds.  I found the right speed where the chisel cut nicely and began.  Unfortunately, the razor sharp chisel cut too nicely and I turned the tenon on a taper and far too small.  Okay, start over.  This time with more caution. Tada!!  A nicely cut tenon.  And fortunately, Wayne was able to use the chunk I had ruined for my pipe.  He removed the junk tenon and made a new one, and voila, a stem for the rhodesian he was making!

So now, drilled stummel and fitted stem, next is rough shaping.  To the belt disc sander I traveled.  First section to be removed was the forward of the bowl.  Then I roughed in the shank.  Bowl sides up next and some fine tuning (if you can call it that) of the rough shape.  Done with that, I needed to shorten the tenon as I had made it slightly on the long side, so I buzzed a little off.  Still too long, buzzed a little more.  I'm not sure when I realized the tenon was getting pretty short compared to its origin, but I soon realized I had 'buzzed' too much off.  Arrggghhh!!!  Well, I will just shorten the shank a bit, easy enough right?  In theory on paper it's easy, but in practice it takes forever and if you want a nice stem/shank fit, it can be painful to accomplish.  But I persevered and re-attained a nice stem/shank fit with the proper mortise/tenon fit internally.  One for the books and never to do again! I was done for the night.
On Saturday I went back in the afternoon.  More conversations, discussions of pipes and the like and nearly every other subject in between.  More shaping to Coachman and more work on the replacement stem I was making.  I think I left around 9:30PM and I am sure Wayne was happy to get rid of me!  I can't wait to get back and work on more epic pipes! Until then, happy piping!

Houten - The Finale!

After base ebony stain, ready for final stain and finishing

Worked this week to complete Houten and finished on Saturday evening.  I will most likely give it a proper buff at Wayne's but for now I am happy enough with the results to post pictures.

With the stem complete, the last step was finishing the stummel.  I had the base ebony coat on for the contrast look I was trying to achieve.  After polishing and prepping for the actual contrast color, I mixed the red stain solution and donned my rubber gloves.  Wet the rag with the red stain and went to town on the stummel!  After it dried, another buff and then check the finish color.  Far too light, almost pink.  Bummer. Re-mix the solution with a touch more red, some orange and a bit of silver/grey.  Re-applied and the color started to come into hue.  Dried, buffed, re-applied.  I think I did this 4 or 5 times before the color was as I liked it.  But wait, what's this?!  I had a dent on the left side of the bowl I hadn't seen!  Ah, the aggravation!  I tried the 'steam' method to remove it, but that helped very little.  Grrr....  All that and I now have to sand the finish around the dent.  Oh well.  Sanded, reapplied the ebony and red stains and matched it up to the rest of the finish.  No harm, no foul.

Now for the final polish before applying wax.  I guess I should back up a bit.  I recently went to Harbor Freight and snagged a 'polishing kit' with two 3" buffing wheels that fit into a drill.  I used one to buff with the 'red tripoli' polish to prepare for stain and one to try out for applying carnauba wax on some other restoration pipes I am doing to check its usefulness.  I was very satisfied with the results for both wheels, but now had a problem.  I need a third wheel for applying 'white diamond' polish as a final polish before going for the wax.  So, I stopped my work for a while and took a trip to Menards.  Had a hard time finding any polishing wheels, but finally found an employee to direct me, to the hardware section.  Three aisles in, voila!  A flannel polishing wheel.  This one needed a separate arbor, and I was on my way.

Back home, I had promised to help a new neighbor move in after I returned.  That didn't take too long and I was back to pipe work.  Chucked up the new white diamond wheel, buffed, and how did the pipe shine!  Thrilled about the shine I went headlong into applying the wax.  Starting with my Dremel and a felt wheel I applied the wax, almost smearing it on.  Moved in sections around the pipe, applying and smoothing.  After the whole stummel was waxed, I took the wax buffing wheel I mentioned previously and 'dry buffed' for the final gloss.  And wow did it gloss!

I removed the little bit of stain inside the smoking chamber and final sanded it and wiped the whole pipe with a buffing cloth.  Now to the pictures!  These are quick snapshots I took to post on CPS and here, I will be taking better shots for my website after the final buff on Wayne's lathe.

I am very pleased with the color and contrast, I was trying to match the combination of black and red in the cumberland stem, and I think I got it!  The flame grain is warm and flows over the pipe nicely.  The birds-eye grain on the bottom of the bowl and shank is fantastic!  Two pipes in and I'm hooked!

Until the next pipe making experience, happy piping!